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F150 Door Latch Assembly Repair Kit for Ford Series

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  • 1992 to 2013 E-Series Vans (all); 1992 to 2013 F-Series truck (F-150, F-250, and F-350); '97 to '03 Expedition ; The Glass and Door of the rear tailgate for '03-'05 Explorer; '98-'02 Lincoln Navigator; '92-'13 Ford Ranger; '97-'04 Mazda B-Series Trucks
  • Use this kit to permanently fix both broken door cables in a single door, cargo door, liftgate, suicide door, tailgate, rear hatch, etc.
  • All parts are CNC machined from solid billet aluminum 6061 T6
  • Use this kit to permanently repair two Ford door cables; Installs in just minutes
  • one Cam style locking cable repair end so that the cable bracket does not need to be bent into place
  • Vehicle Fitment:
    •1992-2013 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350
    •1992-2013 E-series Econoline Van E-150, E-250, E-350
    •1997-2002 Expedition, Excursion, Navigator (rear door latch/liftgate)
    •1992-2013 Ford Ranger Ext. Cab
    •1997-2008 Expedition Rear Hatch
    •1997-2004 Mazda B-series

    these items can fit for many ford Ford Van and Truck years and models, if you can't sure, please contact with us and we will reply you ASAP.

    Here are some Tec Tips for this project, some helpful hints:
    1) You or a helper friend, need to be reasonably “Mechanically Inclined” for this project.
    2) 3/8” drive - T50 TOREX BIT for the seat-belt removal, bolts are on their very tight. A good 3/8” socket set (with a breaking bar and ratchet) is recommended. There is also a large Metric Nut behind the Interior Door Panel.
    3) Pull the “Weather Stripping” away from the Interior Door Panel, leaving it attached to the door at the top and bottom.
    4) Use a “Wonder Bar” or long wide screwdriver and work around the Interior Door Panel, popping the panel off the panel pins.
    5) After you remove the snap-on plastic trim panel (Interior Door Panel) from each door, take a few pictures and notes showing how cables are routed through and over the metal door frame. Note: on my vehicle the upper cables on both doors had two little green flags on each cable. I also found that the upper cable attached to the lower attachment point on the door handle.
    6) Use a punch and hammer to knock out the center pin on each Rivet that holds the plastic handle to the door, total of four, two on each side. With the pins removed, drill out the Rivets, in my case I used a 3/16” drill bit.
    7) 1/4” drive - T27 TOREX BIT to remove the four door latch assembles, factory installed with “Lock Tight”, these are on very very tight, my TORX Bit actually twisted on one of these screws. Again, note how these latches, cables, electrical cables, etc. are all positioned… before removal!!!
    8) Do not remove the cables or bottom electrical cable from the latch assembles. You do need to remove the cables from both “Door Handles”.
    9) The two special “Cam Shaped” units (one on each door) attach to the top cable, at the latch end of the cable; they twist lock into place in the upper latch mechanism on each door.
    10) You will need to lightly sand down the “Dimples” on each cable end… two door repair, two cables each door, total of eight cable ends to be sanded!!! You will not be able to properly seat the cables into these replacement ends without performing this sanding task on each cable end!!!
    11) When reattaching the Door Handles (with the repaired cables attached) to the door, use a 3/16” Diameter Rivet, I used a ¼ long 3/16” Rivet.
    12) With proper tools and prep, this is a one to two hour project.
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